Travel Stories from the Road
Rediscovering the Waves: Recco, Italy
Apr
In the year leading up to our wedding in Florence in November 2023, I spent a lot of time exploring different towns throughout Italy, trying to find the right place for us to move after we got married. Just a couple of months before the wedding, I stumbled across Recco.
I didn’t know much about it—and I’d never even been to Genova before—so I took a final scouting trip, knowing it was my last window before wedding prep would fully take over. I spent a week exploring Genova and Recco, wanting to be absolutely sure it was the right call. What I found was something far better than I expected.
From Southern California to Italy
Growing up in Southern California, board sports were everything. I started with Surfing—I have vivid memories of my uncle teaching me to surf before school in Seal Beach, and countless mornings spent chasing waves from Huntington to Newport.
But I also skated for over ten years, carving down neighborhood streets, any skate parks I could find, and doing everything I could to stay on a board. In Southern California you can even Surf and Snowboard in the same day, and I of course loved wakeboarding as well.
When I moved to Florence, I had to leave that lifestyle behind. Surfing wasn’t an option, and skating on Florence’s cobblestone streets? Nearly impossible. I held onto the feeling of carving, but the environment didn’t match. That’s when years later I eventually found the Onewheel XR. It was a game changer.
It gave me a way to reconnect with my roots—to carve and cruise again, even in a city where traditional skateboarding just didn’t make sense. Riding the Onewheel through the Tuscan countryside and historic alleyways of Florence became my way of bringing a piece of that board-riding identity into my new life.
A first look at Recco
Our move to Recco was initially driven by its tranquil ambiance, proximity to nature, and coastal allure—ideal for starting a family. Plus- there is a restaurant next door to the apartment we found called ‘Peyote Tacos Bar’ , which is connected to a surf shop. (Talk about a sign!) . The people who work there are awesome, and they have an honestly great selection of tequila and Mescal + their tacos help stave off the cravings for my Mexican tacos back home.
Also next to to us there is a great lounge / cocktail bar that is owned by two brothers. The place is called ‘Malla Cafe’ which has some really cool decor. It’s a nice place to get an aperitivo and even people watch if you sit outside while enjoying a cocktail and some snacks.
Last but not least, just around the corner from us there is a pub called ‘Il Fondo Birreria’, which is honestly so clutch for me. Everyone who works there is honestly rad. They’ve got a great selection of beers, and the perfect atmosphere for me to get some serious work done. Whenever I get too distracted at home, this is where you’ll find me writing blog posts or editing photos while enjoying a few beers and even the occasional burger and onion rings.
As you can see there are already quite a few pluses as to the ‘why’ for the move. It actually wasn’t until we settled in that we realized that Recco has a vibrant surf culture. I’m sure you can understand my total and complete excitement.
Unlike the consistent swells of Southern California, Recco’s waves are more sporadic, often dictated by storms and sea winds, predominantly during winter and early spring. However, when conditions align at any point during the year- the local surf community springs to life, transforming the calm sea town into a surfer’s haven.
The History of Surfing in Recco
Surfing in Recco has evolved over the years, growing from a niche activity to a well-recognized facet of the town’s identity. While not as globally renowned as some international surf destinations, Recco holds a special place in Italy’s surf scene. The town’s unique coastal configuration creates waves suitable for both beginners and seasoned surfers.
Blackwave Surf School: The Backbone of the local surf community
Central to Recco’s surf culture is the Blackwave Surf School. Established in 2011, Blackwave has been instrumental in promoting surfing and other board sports in the region. Their philosophy emphasizes awareness, fun, and respect for nature. Catering to all skill levels, they offer courses ranging from beginner lessons to advanced coaching. Their commitment has significantly contributed to Recco’s growing prominence as a surf destination.
Understanding Recco’s Waves
Recco offers a mix of wave types, making it suitable for various surfing styles. The beach break provides forgiving waves ideal for novices, while the reef break challenges more experienced surfers. In my experience so far, the best conditions typically arise when there are mild to moderate storms nearby that cause swells to come in. With conditions like this it’s pretty great as the waves will essentially go on all day – vs a place like Huntington beach where you usually really only get good waves in the early morning and then the rest of the day is usually blown out due to the wind.
Sometimes in Recco you’ll also get a big storm that will roll through with huge whitewash filled waves crashing over the break water. It’s usually the day after, or two days after a big storm like that arrives when the majority of surfers come to get in the water after the waves have calmed down a bit. Then sometimes on the late afternoon of the 2nd day, or the earlier on the 3rd day the beginner / intermedia surfers who are still learning, or may be taking surf lessons through Blackwave arrive as well.
It’s worth noting that surfing in Recco is generally pretty safe, but it’s worth noting that the water isn’t extremely deep, and there are a few submerged scattered rocks starting from around the middle of the beach heading towards the south end of the beach. The safest place to surf ( where all the beginners surf as well ) is the north side.
Seasonal Surfing Insights
- Winter (December to February): Cold temperatures dominate, with water averaging around 13°C (55°F). A 4/3mm wetsuit paired with 3mm boots is advisable for extended sessions.
- Spring (March to May): Conditions gradually warm up. Early spring still requires a 4/3mm wetsuit, but by late May, a 3/2mm suit suffices as water temperatures approach 18°C (64°F).
- Summer (June to August): The sea becomes invitingly warm, averaging between 22°C to 28°C (72°F to 82°F). A 2mm shorty or even boardshorts are comfortable during these months.
- Autumn (September to November): Temperatures start to decline. Early autumn remains pleasant, but by November, reverting to a 3/2mm or 4/3mm wetsuit is recommended.
Ideal Surfboards for Recco
Given the variable wave conditions, a fish or a funboard is ideal for most swells. For those who are more experienced or prefer shorter boards, a shortboard would suit you well – especially for the bigger sets or for those wanting to get the most carving opportunities out of the smaller waves.
Beyond Surfing: Embracing Recco’s Coastal Lifestyle
Recco isn’t solely about surfing. The town offers a plethora of outdoor activities. The surrounding hills boast numerous hiking and mountain biking trails, and Recco is quite popular with trekkers who come through, hiking their way to the Portofino Natural Park. The calm sea during off-swell periods is also perfect for paddleboarding, kayaking, and snorkeling.
Recco is also internationally renowned for its famed Focaccia di Recco col formaggio ( IGP ) – which is essentially melted stracchino cheese in between two pieces of extremely thin dough which are baked to a golden brown crisp. Talk about absolute yum.
A Chill Town That Feels Like Home
The surf scene is different from what I grew up with in Southern California, but that’s part of what makes it so interesting. It’s a mix of tranquil clear waters, and when the waves roll through – a bustling shoreline filled with surfers of all ages. Sometimes you never know the kind of day you’re going to have – you’ve got to pay attention to the wind, the season, and the mood of the sea—it keeps you present.
We didn’t move to Recco because it was a surf town. But finding out that it was one, too, has really been a gift. A small, chill town with the right kind of energy. A safe and stress-free place to raise our first born. The kind of place where you can wake up, look at the water, and decide what kind of day it’s going to be. That’s exactly what I was hoping for, and Recco has certainly delivered.
