Visiting ‘La Superba’ – My first experience in Genova

I’ve spent a decade in Italy without ever visiting Genova, and I have to say it’s truly a shame. I place Genova, Torino, and Naples into this category of places that tend to have a bad reputation, but that I happened to absolutely love. 

For those interested, feel free to check out my blogs featuring Torino and Naples:

• Naples – Where the Soul of Italy Still Lives
• Beyond Fiat – Discovering Torino’s Beauty

If you’ve been to Naples before, Genova will feel very familiar to you in many ways. Genova feels a bit like Naples, but without its characteristic chaos. In fact, after speaking to some locals in Genova about my observation, I was told that many Neapolitans move to Genova because of this very reason. They like the vibe of the city, and the familiarity of it- but want to live in a place that is more livable for them. Genova also shares some visual similarities with Naples as well – but before you feel convinced that Genova IS Naples, let’s give this amazing city credit where it is certainly due 🙂

To give you just one example of what I mean – take a look at one of my framed products that I created for my Naples Collection ( Naples Overlook ), vs. one of my shots that I just gook in Genova. Pretty cool right?!

Naples Overlook

Naples, Italy

For those of you who know me personally, or have been following along with my blogs over the past year, you’ll know that I’ve been searching for a new place in Italy to potentially call home. My search has taken me on trips from Florence to Southern France to the Tuscan coast, to Torino, Trento, Bolzano, Piacenza, Cremona, Mantova, Pavia, Pescara and – finally – to the Capital of Liguria. Why Genova? It’s simple. Genova is the last major city that I haven’t visited, that I thought had the potential to be a good fit. I mean just look at this architecture – So cool!

It’s always hard to know where to book a place to rent when you haven’t visited a city before. How safe is the area going to be? How well connected is it going to be to the major sites on foot? How close and reliable is the public transportation going to be? Are there going to be restaurants or coffee shops nearby?

There are probably a hundred different things to take into consideration when trying to book a place like this, but thankfully: this isn’t my first rodeo!

For those interested check out my blog: Insights and Stories from an Airbnb Expert: Me?

After doing my research, I decided to stay near the train station Brignole. It was the perfect fit for what I was looking for, and it was also well connected to everything that I wanted to see. Since I also knew I was going to bring my Onewheel with me I also booked something farther into a residential area. This is something I enjoy as well because it allows me to also have a better idea of how people that live in a particular city or town actually live vs. being surrounded by tourist-only services or attractions. I don’t completely avoid touristy areas, it’s just that I prefer to immerse myself in a more local atmosphere whenever possible. 

As soon as I checked into my Airbnb, and taking a lift on one of the jankiest 2 person maximum elevators that I’ve experienced since that one time in Barcelona… but I digress… I plotted my course towards my first destination to get an overlook: il Belvedere di Carignano. 

Genova has an unmistakable big city vibe, but for a lack of better words I would have to say it also feels a bit undiscovered in regards to its genuinity and atmosphere when compared to other major Italian cities. As soon as I arrived I felt EXCITED to check it out. 

Walking through the neighborhood towards the city center is where I started to immediately feel the similarities to Naples. There is an essence of greatness in cities like this. You can feel the old wealth and success that must have flowed through these cities’ veins at a certain point in time, but there is no longer enough funds to maintain everything that was built. Some structures are left in partial or complete disrepair, some are in need of some love, and only the most important or profitable stand out above the rest. This is honestly the kind of character that I admire in a city.

To me this is history, this is character-  this is raw and real just like the world should be.

As I continued to walk I stumbled upon il Passo Borgo degli Incrociati, a tunnel that takes you under the Brignole train station, and is filled with some pretty impressive street art that I found quite interesting. Once out of the tunnel, I traversed Piazza della Vittoria, which includes Genova’s own Arco della Vittoria.

 

 

Upon the arch it is written:

Genova – I Figli Morti Per La Patria
Combattendo in Terra In Mare In Cielo
Alla Gloria dei Secoli – Svperba Consacra
MCMXV – MCMXVIII

Which translates to:

Genoa – The Sons Who Died for their Homeland
Fighting on Land, At Sea, and In the Sky
To the Glory of the Ages – Superba Consecrates
1915-1918

The steps up to Il Belvedere di Carignano are impressive in their own right. Called La Scalinata delle Tre Caravelle, these stairs are a vibrant display of green-like park that has two staircases on either side of it going up at a 40° degree angle. Once you get to the top of these stairs you need to go up to the right to climb even more stairs to get to the viewpoint – but let me tell you – it’s totally worth it.

Something that I’ve looked for during all my travels around the Italian peninsula trying to find a place to live is what I call the ‘wow factor’, and let me tell you: Genova certainly has it. 

Another thing that was really refreshing walking through Genova, was simply the diversity of things to see and experience. From street art (ahem, Ballerina Putin) to beautiful covered walking paths and overall interesting architectural styles.

In the midst of my exploration I also stumbled upon a Mexican restaurant called Mamacitas on the way to climbing La Salita di S. Leonardo which I was honestly super excited about.  ( Italy has a real lack of great Mexican food places, so every time I find a new one – tbh I have a little hope! )

This steep climb itself is a bit hidden, but it’s a road I ended up climbing more than once during my trip – and not just because I may or may not be a glutton for punishment a la climbing steep hills in search of adventures.

Indeed – it was after climbing this hill did I then stumble upon a Basilica – Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta in Carignano in face, where I did see one of the most striking and unique statues that I have ever laid my eyes upon in Italy. 

When I say striking and unique – we’re talking about a statue that depicts an angel in the process of removing Saint Bartholomew’s skin with a dagger. 

Hat tip to the statue in Milan’s duomo which depicts Satin Bartholomew holding his own skin, seemingly chillin’, after the flaying process was completed.

Some Italian sculptors had no chill!  …and it’s awesome.

Once I came out of the church I saw a cool view looking down towards the port so I decided to admire it for a few minutes before heading towards my next destination: Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari.

This is an amazing plaza, and I was so enthused that it exists in Genova. The fountain mixed with the surrounding architecture is honestly so beautiful – a lot of which reminds me of the style of something you would find in Paris. I then walked towards Porta Soprana which looks and feels like the last remnants of an older age. Right next to the door I also saw this very colorful street so I walked around the area for a bit admiring sites before continuing on.

My host recommended that I try this place called Panificio Mario, so I picked up a few pieces of focaccia to take back to the apartment for lunch. As a first try I went with one Focaccia di Recco, and another focaccia with pesto. Both were definitely not what I was expecting! Super thin, light, and very soft. My ‘Airbnb’ Mom also prepared me an entire plate of fruit which I couldn’t have refused even if I wanted to ;).

After taking a quick pisolino (nap) I decided I wanted to check out the seaside in Genova to see how accessible it was from where I was staying and to see what the shoreline was like.

Walking towards the sea I encountered some great areas with a lot of trees, and was happy to also see many small businesses, small cafes and restaurants as well. Once I arrived at the sea you can really see that the seaside in Genova is separated into two distinct parts. The downtown area that is predominantly the shipyard where they have a lot of shipping facilities and boat/yacht building facilities. Towards the end of this part you also have Genova’s famous aquarium that I would definitely like to check out some day.

As you get outside of downtown heading south though, you start seeing a nicer coastline lined with nice walking paths, rocky beaches, and even some nice bagni for sunbathing. I imagine this part of town is pretty hoppin’ during the warmer summer months, and I was pleased to see so many people out exercising or just strolling along the well maintained promenade. After walking down along the coastline I decided to walk back towards Belvedere di Carignano so I could catch a glimpse of the sunset looking over Genova before heading back to the apartment to rest my legs a bit. Even though Genova is a bigger city – it really does feel so peaceful up here. Even the traffic that I’ve seen hasn’t been anything like I’ve seen in other larger Italian cities. So either my timing has just been perfect, or Genova really does have some extra chill points up its sleeve.

After leaving all my camera equipment back at the house and freshening up a bit I took my Onewheel and headed towards the first place I wanted to try authentic pasta with pesto in Genova: Cavour modo 21. I mean: they are pesto world champions after all!

I arrived to the restaurant and found a small line which was no problem. I put my name on the list and went back outside to wait. After a 5 minutes wait, the owner came outside and started pouring everyone in line a glass of rosé to enjoy while we waited. The couple next to me accepted a glass each, but the girl turned to me and told me she didn’t drink, and asked me if I wanted hers also. I gratefully accepted, of course. 😉

After a few more minutes of waiting I was presented with a table outside, and ordered a plate of their pasta with pesto ASAP! To give you an idea of how famished I was, I walked 26.766 steps carrying camera equipment that day. (Over the river and through the woods to Grandmother’s house, so to speak).

When the pasta arrived I couldn’t hide my excitement. As you may or may not know – Genova is where Pesto comes from, and I was about to taste pesto pasta made at a restaurant that was a world champion pesto maker. What a life am I living!

After my first bite I was in love, and I learned so many things as I continued eating the dish. The taste of the fresh pesto, the consistency. The fact that in the pasta there was not only noodles and pesto, but also pieces of potato and green beans, which I later found out are super typical ways of preparing this dish. I had no idea this was how pesto was supposed to taste, and how great it could be with potatoes and green beans as well: it was perfect! 

I ordered a few other things to try as well – but pesto was the clear winner in terms of deliciousness, and overall impact ON MY LIFE. So good, so good.

 

 

After dinner I headed out in search for a night cap and decided to head to Kamun Lab for a glass ( or three ) of craft beers. The atmosphere is honestly great, the people that worked there were really nice, and obviously the beer they were serving was top notch as well. The barman was a really nice guy who gave me a lot of tips and advice about the city as well, which is one of the reasons why I continuously visit craft beer locations while I travel – I’m always going to find chill people to real talk with 🙂

If I’ve learned anything from my experiences in exploring new cities recently, it’s that cities like Genova really do have so many layers to them. I also feel like the kind of experience you’re going to have is going to be impacted by the time you allow yourself to really get to know a place. Genova is a city that deserves the time it takes to really explore it in depth, just like anywhere. I’ve had nothing but an absolutely amazing experience here in Genova – just breaking through the surface – but I can honestly say that I’m really excited to get to know it better the next time I return.

The next day I woke up feeling really accomplished having set out to do exactly what I wanted. I walked a few steps down the street from the apartment and enjoyed one of the best cornetto al pistacchio that I have ever eaten in my entire life, polished off my cappuccio in around 15 seconds, and headed off towards the real reason I came to Genova for the first time, right now, to begin with. To where you might ask? For that you’ll have to wait until next time… 🙂

Cheers until then!

– Scott